leltar / inventory

-- english version below --

most, hogy vege, megprobalom osszegezni, mi is fert bele ebbe az utba:

- 60 nap

- 4 orszag

- 3 vizum

- 2 meghivolevel

- 6 nyelv (a magyaron kivul)

- 3 sim kartya (a magyaron kivul)

- 5 repulo

- 13 varos

- megtett ut:

autoval / busszal / vonattal: ~7500 km

gyalog: ~700 km

- ejszakak:

jurtaban: 6

satorban: 7

vonaton: 3

szallason: 43 (20 kulonbozo helyen)

- 22 nap gyomorproblema

- ~38 tusolas (ebbe beleertem a lavoros mosdasokat is)

- leghosszabb ido furdoszoba nelkul: 6 nap (:

ami tetszett:

- a termeszet

- rengeteg allat (lo, teve, birka, kecske stb)

- a jurtak

- a hagyomanyaik

- az emberek vegtelen kedvessege

- a jo kaja, a sutik es a kenyer

- az arak

- hogy nem beszelnek angolul

- a ruhazat

- hogy a varosokban minden utca vagy meroleges a masikra, vagy azzal parhuzamos (kiveve tashkent)

meg en sem tudtam eltevedni sehol

- a gyerekek: mindegyiket nagyon erdekli, hogy ki vagy es honnan jottel. baromira buszkek arra, hogy tudjak azt, hogy hello (ez a helyi nyelvekben nem hasznalatos), es ezt alandoan bizonyitani akarjak

- az alkudozasok (foleg amikor sikeres)

- a spontan alakulo, szervezetlen utazasok (elmeletileg szinte az egesz ilyen volt)

ami nem annyira tetszett:

- nr 1, legyozhetetlen: wc-k es furdoszobak

- nincsenek szabalyok, nincs magantulajdon, nincs privat zona

- szemet mindenhol, es mindenki eldob mindent

- nincsenek bankautomatak

- vezetesi kultura, illetve annak hianya

- hogy nem allnak meg az uton

- nem hasznalnak biztonsagi ovet (en sem tudok, mert tobbnyire nincs vagy nem mukodik)

- mindenki tudni akarja, hogy mennyit keresel, de nem igazan gondolnak bele, hogy a koltsegeim is magasabbak otthon

- kopkodes, turhazas

- mindig amerikainak neznek. na, jo, neha francianak, de az sem jobb (:

- hogy nem tudom nekik megmagyarazni, hogy miert utazom egyedul, es ennyi idosen miert nincsenek gyerekeim

- a buszokra oroszul van rairva, hogy hova megy. mire kitalalom, hogy jo-e nekem, mar el is huzott

- hogy allandoan koszos vagyok

- kezzel mosas

- nincs coke zero (((:

es a top10+:

- ulni egy jurtaban, forro teat kortyolgatva, a frissen kisult kenyeret majszolva, es nezni, ahogy kint jegeso esik, majd 16 kilo takaro alatt elaludni

- felhajtani a satorajtot, es gyonyorkodni a felkelo nap sugaraban az 5000 m-es hegycsucson

- feljutni a hegy tetejere, es onnan nezni a 3000 m-en levo tavat

- birkaszemet, fulet es agyat ebedelni

- lohaton begyujteni az allatokat

- csacsigolni

- megsimogatni egy kisbirkat

- bekopogni idegenekhez szallast vagy teat kerve

- ugy wc-re menni, hogy kozben 15 teve figyeli, mit csinalsz

- elmosogatni a jeghideg patakban

- gyonyorkodni az iszlam epiteszeti remekekeben

- hajnali 6-kor tehenet fejni

- vodkat reggelizni

- kiszallni a vonatbol 26 ora utan

- eljutni egyik pontbol a masikba ugy, hogy semmi nincs megszervezve

es hogy kb mennyibol jott ki mindez:

- repjegyek: 700 euro

- vizumok + meghivolevelek: 240 usd

- egyeb koltsegek (bar meg nem szamoltam utana igazan): kb 1100 euro

nem akarom tulmisztifikalni az utazast magat. nem hazudok, nem volt mindig jo. voltak percek (orak, napok), amikor azt kivantam, hogy barcsak ujra otthon... de ilyenkor mindig volt valaki vagy valami, ami tovabblenditett a holtponton. es megerte. mind az utolso percig. a jo es a rossz reszek egyarant. hisz mindbol tanultam, mind egy-egy tapasztalat.

remelem, nem vettem el senkinek a kedvet attol, hogy eljojjon ide, es ateljen valami hasonlot...

most hazamegyek, kimosom a ruhaimat, veszek egy sajat hatizsakot (ezt koszi zoli!!!) es egy gazfozot, hogy utana ujra utrakelhessek, a vilag egy masik vegebe... (:

конец

--------------------------------------

now, that it has come to the end, i want to summarize, what fit to this trip:

- 60 days

- 4 countries

- 3 vizas

- 2 letters of invitation

- 6 languages (plus hungarian)

- 3 sim cards (plus hungarian)

- 5 flights

- 13 cities

- distances:

by car / by bus / by train: ~7500 km

on foot: ~700 km

- nights:

in a yurt: 6

in a tent: 7

on the train: 3

in rooms: 43 (in 20 different places)

- 22 days of diarrhoea

- ~38 showers (including the ones without running water)

- longest time without taking a shower: 6 days

what i liked very much:

- nature

- lots of animals around (horses, camels etc)

- yurts

- their traditions

- the kindness of locals

- good food, cakes and amazing bread

- prices

- that they dont speak english

- traditional clothes

- that streets in the cities are either perpendicular or parallel to each other (except tashkent)

even i could not get lost...

- kids: all are very interested about you. they are very proud of knowing the world 'hello', as this is not common in local languages, and they are ready to prove it

- bargains (especially when i succeed)

- spontaneous, unorganized way of traveling (mainly the whole trip)

what i disliked:

- nr 1 (unbeatable): toilets and bathrooms

- no rules, no privacy, no own property

- trash everywhere

- no atms

- lack of driving culture

- they dont stop, when you cross the street

- they dont use safety belt (so couldn't i, because it is not there or does not work at all)

- all wanna know how much you earn, but cannot imagine your higher costs of living at home

- spitting all the time, lack of tissue usage

- they think i am american. or french, but not better either (:

- that i cannot explain them, why i travel alone, and why i have no husband and kids at this age

- the route of the buses is written on them in russian, so by the time i can read it, the bus is gone

- so that i am always dirty

- washing by hand

- no coke zero (((:

and the top10+:

- sitting in a yurt, drinking hot tea, eating fresh bread while ice is raining outside, then falling asleep under 16 kg of blankets

- open the tent door, and having a view of the rising sun on the top of a summit, that is above 5000 m

- getting up the top of the hill, and watching the sun going down over the lake at 3000 m

- having sheep eyes, ear and brain for lunch

- gathering the animals on the back of a horse

- riding a donkey

- fondling a little sheep

- knocking to strangers asking for accomodation or a tea

- taking a toilet outside while 15 camels are staring at you

- making the dishes in the ice-cold spring

- delectating in the masterpieces of islamic architecture

- having vodka for breakfast

- milking a cow at 6 am

- getting off the train after 26 hours

- getting from one location to the other without organizing anything in advance

and approximately how much it cost me:

- airplane tickets: 700 euro

- visas and lois: 240 usd

- other costs (anyway, i have not checked it so thoroughly): ~1100 euro

i dont want to overdraw the beauty of traveling. not at all. there were really bad moments, not only one, when i wished being rather at home... but in these moments there was always someone or something, that helped me going on and on and on. and it was worth it. until the last minute. both the bad and the good parts. because i learned from all. each of them is an experience.

hope i could not decrease your enthusiasm about visiting these places and experiencing something similar. believe me, its just cool!

ok, gotta go home, have my clothes washed, buy an own backpack (zoli, thanks for this one!) and a gas stove, and start planning the next trip... (:

конец

zaroakkordkent / final stage

almaty-ban eltoltott 1 napom utan ujra nekivagtam a hegyekenk, bar nem minden porcikam vagyott mar faradtsagos maszas es hideg utan, de ugye a varosban logni otthon is lehet... szoval nekiindultam.
egy jol megpakolt hatizsakkal szokas szerint felszalltam a helyi jaratra, es elmentem vele, ameddig csak lehetett. ott egy taxist elharitva elkezdtem stoppolni. egesz hamar felvettek, viszont 1-2 km utan utlezaras volt, igy gyalog folytattam. nagyon faraszto volt, valoszinu az egyoldalu etkezes es a megszokottnal kicsit tobb gyaloglas es joves-menes az elmult honapokban megtette a hatasat... azert felkuzdottem magam 2500-ra. az ut egy csatorna mellett vezetett, ami furcsa hangulatot adott a helynek. ami vicces volt a vegere, hogy a varos felol felkuszott egy alacsony felho, es a latotavolsag igy lecsokkent 20 m-re. szoval fogalmam sem volt, hol vagyok, es mennyi van meg hatra. es felerni a tohoz sem volt akkora elmeny, ha ennyit lat az ember:

szokas szerint kicsit faztam...es mivel semmit nem lattam a kornyekbol, megkerdeztem a helyieket, hogy hol tudok inni egy teat - mi mast ugye?!? mondtak, hogy fenn a hegyen van egy csillagvizsgalo, ott van hotel is (a hotelt ne tessek szo szerint erteni!). utkozben az ido kegyes volt hozzam, es egesz sokat latni engedett a tobol. es esni is csak kicsit esett. tokre orultem...a hotel egy igazi orosz gyongyszem volt...megittam a teamat, ettem a sajat kajambol (ez itt sehol nem problema: volt olyan, hogy egy szorakozohelyre beultunk ugy, hogy egy masik helyrol rendeltunk oda pizzat, es a boltbol vittunk bort...), majd ugy dontottem, hogy az ejszakat a to mellett toltom a satramban. mire odaertem, megint esett, de gyorsan felhuztam a satrat (eddigi legjobban sikerult!), es fel 7-kor lefekudtem aludni... ami nem ment olyan konnyen, mert ez volt az elso satrazasom egyedul, es nem tudtam hirtelen, hogy feljek-e vagy sem. vegulis nem feltem...
ejjel tobbszor felebredtem arra, hogy esik. meg hogy hideg van. meg hogy esik. meg hogy hideg van. reggel 8-ra viszont megjott a napsutes, igy gyors reggeli meg a halozsakban, es pakolas. ez volt a szallasom:itt:
mire elindultam, ujra esett, igy teazot kerestem. a helyi lavinafigyeloktol kerdeztem, hogy hova tudnek menni, mire termeszetesen behivtak (utolag bevallom, erre apellaltam...), es lelkesen meseltek a mindenfele maszasaikrol. meghivtak teara, es ebedre (friss hal a tobol!!!), sot, eso esetere ingyen szallast is ajanlottak. mondtam, hogy hamarosan repulok haza, es meg ezer dolgom van, igy amint lehet, megyek tovabb.

egyebkent hihetetlen, hogy mar akar ket oran keresztul is tudok oroszul tarsalogni, es mar nem is olyan unalmas temakrol. a jelek szerint meg is ertjuk egymast, es a szotar is egyre kevesebbszer kell :P

esett egy adag jegeso es ho:aztan a valtozatossag kedveert kisutott a nap. azert a hegyek teteje mar friss hoval boritott:

ugy tunt, hogy az idojaras nem nekem kedvez, mert fel ora utan ujra osszeallt egy ujabb zivatarfelho. gyorsan bekeredzkedtem egy ott parkolo minibuszba, ami vegulis lehozott a varosba. kozben fel ora jegeso volt.., (:

azert megerte, meg ha nem is tudtam felmenni magasabbra az idojaras miatt, igy is sokat tanultam a hegyekbol. es majd legkozelebb tovabbmegyek (:

-----------------------------------

after spending a day in almaty i decided to go back to the mountains. i was a bit reluctant, because i was tired - maybe because of the same food all the time, or unusually lot of walking - and i did not long for cold weather either. but hey, these are my last days here, so i just cannot sit in the sofa watching tv...

so i started with a backpack full of food and warm clothes, took the local bus to as far as possible  to the mountains. there i refused a taxi and started hitchhiking. pretty soon someone took me, but the road was closed after a while, so i walked further on.

despite the fatique i climbed up to 2500 m. the road went next to a tube, which looked pretty weird, and not really nice...

by the time i reached the lake, the weather changed and got sooo foggy, that i could hardly see anything. got a bit disappointed by trekking a few hours and not seeing anything from the lake... i had no idea where i was and what was around.

as usual, i was cold...

because i could not see anything from around, i asked some locals, where i could have a cup of tea (what else?!? of course...) i was sent to an observatory nearby, and a hotel as well (not a real hotel, just to avoid misunderstandings). the weather was really nice with me and let me see a bit of the lake:

the hotel was a russian miracle...

i drank my tea, ate my own food (which is very normal here: once we went to a pub, where we ordered pizza from another place and took wine from the shop!!!). i decided to spend the night next to the lake, just to have a beautiful view in the morning. by the time i got there, it was raining, so i had to be quick - still one of the best with this tent, and went to bed at 6:30 pm... it was weird as this was the first time i camped on my own, so i was not sure if i should be affraid or not... so i decided not. (:

at night i got up several times hearing the rain on the top of my tent. and it was cold. and was raining. and cold. but! by 8 am sunshine and warm!!! so, a quick breakfast and packing. this was the place for camping:

here:

by the time i was on the road, it was raining again... shit... i tried to find a place to hide. i asked people in the first house, where i was - of course - invited in. they were the local lavina detectors (have no idea how they are called...), and told me everything about their climbings. i was invited for lunch (fresh fish from the lake!!!), and was offered a free couch for night in case of very bad weather. i really wanted to go as there is still much to do before i leave.

unbelievable, that i can already have a conversation of two hours in russian, and it's not that boring at all, we kind of understand each other, and my dictionary is not that often used... :P

it was ice and fresh snow on the top of the mountains, but in half an hour the sun was shining again. so i took my boots and on the road again...

this was not my day, as in half an hour it was storm again. i hardly had time to flee to a minibus, that finally took me to the city. we had another half an hour of heavy rain and ice on the way... ((:

anyway, i was worth it, even though i could not go as far as i wanted - due to the weather mainly -, but still i learned a lot and had a wonderful time there. more next time... (:

UZ to KZ

hat ez nem volt konnyu. pedig csak az egyik fovarosbol - tashkent - akartam eljutni a masikba - almaty.
mondtak, hogy a tashkent melletti hataratkelo le van zarva, mert 2 eve felujitjak, es igy csak helyiek mehetnek ott at. ezek szerint en meg nem szamitok annak...
persze, 80 euro elleneben minden maskepp festene. de nekem nincs erre ennyi penzem :P
gondoltam, hogy vonattal megyek, az megiscsak egyszeru. persze, csak 2 nap mulva megy vonat. hurra. akkor nezzunk taxit! taxi kismillio dollarert vinne at. vagy akar ugyanennyi euroert. vegul nagynehezen megalkudtunk, hogy 50 euroert elvisznek (vonat 40, tehat ez nem olyan rossz...). csakhogy nekem 100-asom van, es mivel itt a dollar az ur, senki nem tudta felvaltani. kozben kiderult, hogy az egyik auto vinne a hatarig, ott kifizetnem, es o rendezne a masik soforrel. viszont azt nemt tudtuk megbeszelni, hogy mi arra a biztositek, hogy a masik oldalon tenyleg tovabbvisznek.
gondoltam, hogy akkor csak a hataratkeloig kerek taxit (50 km). erre el akartak kerni 30 eurot, mondvan, hogy vissza is kell jonnie. nem gyozte meg azon ervem, hogy visszafele majd elhoz egy masik turistat. mikor ez a vita jo 2 oraja ment, az egyik sofor kiakadt ram, es mondta, hogy menjek csak vonattal. es gondoltam, igaza van...
megvettem a jegyet. utana sorban jottek, hogy megiscsak elvinnenek, de persze keso banat. nagyon elegem volt mar a lehuzos uzbegekbol... ):
masnap vonatra fel. anno, mikor a kazahoknal fulkesben utaztam, ki akartam probalni a nyitott vagonosat. most akaratlanul, de sikerult. kb 80 ember egy legterben. kezdtuk egy 4-oras varakozassal a hataron, amiben az a legszebb, hogy nem mozdul a levego, szellozes nulla, azaz a mi ablakunkat le sem lehetett nyitni stb. az en helyem felul volt, ami azt jelentette, hogy nem is tudtam felulni, mert folottem mar csomagok voltak. mindegy, 26 ora hamar elropul... erdekes, ahogy a helyiek utaznak. senki nem megy sehova porcelan bogre nelkul. mindenki hoz valtoruhat es papucsot, a teljes konyhat, valamint instant leveseket, amiket ott helyben megfoznek. mindenkinel van legalabb 5 kilo gyumolcs. az alattam utazo holgy egy evre ment dolgozni oroszorszagba, es epp csk egy hajszal valasztotta el attol, hogy tullepje a 10 darabos dinnye-korlatozast. ugyanis ennel tobbet senki nem vihet fel a vonatra. elkepzelem, ha mindenki felvinne a maximumot... (((:

kaptunk kis uticsomagot, amiben minden volt, amire csak szuksegem lehet az uton: fesu, cipokanal, varroskeszlet etc... persze wc-papir nem volt a wc-ben (:

a vonaton minden van, penzvalto, uditoarus, cigi, sor, sot, neha meg ruhaarusok is megjelennek. sajnos ezt nem tudtam lefotozni rendesen...
lenyeg, hogy almaty: kivalo fagyi, kinai etterem, es az ut soran eloszor: furdo (ezen azt ertsetek, hogy eddig csak tusolni tudtam...)
-------------------------------------------------
this was definitely not easy. all i wanted is to get from one capital - tashkent - to another - almaty.
i was told, that the border next to tashkent is closed for two years for renovation, so only locals can cross it. it seems, that i am still not a local...
of course, if i pay them 80 euro, everything looked different. but no way... :P
i thought that i may take a train, that is simple. except if the next one comes in two days. great. so lets check the taxis. taxis are a fortune. ok, after negotiating a lot, i agreed on a price of 50 euro (train is 40, so this is ok). but i have a note of 100, and here usd is the king, noone could change it. wow!
soon it come up, that the driver would take me to the border only, i should pay there, and another driver would drive me to almaty. but how can i assure, that i really get there, if i already paid?!?
ok, so lets take a taxi to the border here (50 km), and find another there. for some reason noone really wanted to take me. or maybe for 30 euro, for 1/12 of the road!!! we had a debate of about 2 hours, when a driver shouted on me why i did not get the tarin. so i said ok, he might be right- and went to the cashier.
in a few minutes they came to me and offered me normal prices, but i was just fed up with them... ):
ok, train on the next day. when previously i travelled with train, i wanted to try the one without vagonsю тщеб unintentoinally, i managed. ~80 people in a car. we started with 4 hours of waiting on the border. the best was, that the train standed in a place, so the air did not move at all, no ventillation, windows cannot be opened at all etc. i had an upper bed, that meant, that i could not sit on the bed as there were baggages above. cool... anyway, 26 hours are not that much :P it's so interesting how locals travel: eg noone goes anywhere without a porcelain mug. everyone has at least 5 kilos of fruit. the lady laying under me went to russia to work for a year, and had 10 melons with her (each at least 6 kilos)!!! i dont understand... is it the most important they take for a year?!?
anyway, good to know, that there is a limit of 10 melons on the train, you are not allowed to take more (:
i imagine what if everyone takes the maximum...
we got a pack of all the neccecities that one wants on the way including a comb, shoe-horn , sewing kit etc... except toilet papers in the restroom... (:

there is everything on the train: exchange officers, drinks and sausages to buy, beer, cigarette, and sometimes people to sell clothes!!! unfortunately i could not get a good picture of it.
anyway, here i am again in almaty: great ice cream, chinese restaurant, and first time during my trip: a bath (meaning nothing else, but that i could only take showers until now...)

eating plov somehow compensated part of the above:

karaganda - reinhardt 3:1

ok, ez bevallom, kiutott. annyira, hogy majdnem elgondolkodtam azon, hogy hazamegyek. persze nem! egyelore meg nem (:

a masodik farm lehetoseg bedolt, es aznapra mar nem volt jegy vissza almaty-ba, igy ottragadtam karaganda-ban. nem egy szivet melengeto hely, igazabol egy hatalmas falu az 50-es, 60-as evekbol (gondolom). keves hely van lebetonozva, por, kosz es vegtelen igenytelenseg jellemzo, valamint a nemet ipar millionyi gyumolcse - persze csak az, ami ott mar jo ideje nem kell.

az igazan ovon aluli utest az a hely okozta, ahol laktam. ingyen volt ugyan, es tudom, hogy ajandek lonak... na, de ez mar nekem is sok volt. (: teljesen levert lelkileg, es a vegen csak egy dolog lebegett a szemeim elott: el innen! el tudom kepzelni a japan utitarsam sokkoltsagat, akinek fogalma sincs azokrol az idokrol, ami itt meg minig jellemzo, inkabb tokiohoz van hozzaszokva (:

a masodik talalat az idojarasnak koszonheto, ugyanis hideg volt vegig es esett minimum naponta egyszer. de angliaval ellentetben itt megsem volt minden gyonyoru zold. inkabb lehangolo.

harmadikkent... igen, a gyomrom megelegelte. nagyjabol minden kajalas utan beszol, hogy ez nem a megszokott. meg nem tudom, mi a baja, tul sok, tul keves, tul mas, de ez van... ):

de hogy valami pozitivuma is legyen a helynek (azon kivul, hogy merhetetlenul meg fogom becsulni az otthoni korulmenyeimet), hogy vegre bemehettem egy jurtaba. igaz, csak kiallitasi darab volt, nem pedig a maga igazi kornyezeteben, de azert ez is hihetetlen flash volt! remelem, kirgizisztanban tenyleg lakhatom is majd egyben!

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ok, i have to admit, that it just knocked me out. so much, that i started thinking of going home asap. but of course i wont (:

the second farm did not work out, and could not get back to almaty, but on the next day only. the city itself is a big village from the 60's (maybe). not much to see and actually the place itself made me a bit disappointed. ): it seems to me, that poorness makes people depressed (as happened to me as well) and neglectful. a lot of things come from germany, of course the ones, that are not necessary there any longer (cars, buses etc).

weather scored second. always rain and cold, but despite the rain, the environment was not green as in GB, but rather gray.

the third was, yes, my stomach. just got to the point that started to debate with me about the food i took. i have to figure out what to do to conciliate it. (:

but to mention sg positive: i finally managed to enter a yurt. it was an exhibition, so not really in the mountains, but for sure it was still cool! hope that in kyrgyzstan i will have a chance to live in one.

videken / countryside

technikai info: a magyar szamom is el, en viszont az ittenirol valaszolgatok az sms-ekre. szoval ha +77 valamirol kapsz sms-t, es elfelejtenem alairni, az valoszinu en leszek...

no, de vagjunk bele: kedvencem, a tomegkozlekedes. uticel: karaganda, 16 oras ut, halokocsi. rabeszeltek, hogy elsonek a 4-szemelyest probaljam ki, es ha tul komfortos (:, akkor visszafele mehetek az egylegteruben (~30-40 fo). ez nem is volt hujeseg, de majd visszafele... :P

2 kazah no es 1 kislany volt a fulkeben meg, es allandoan velem foglalkoztak. persze, tobbnyire oroszul gondoltak a tarsalgast. es hat hogy mondjam meg nekik, hogy en sehogy nem gondolom?!? ha igy folytatom, osszel tenyleg nyelvvizsgazhatok oroszbol. (:

kb. 45 fok volt. kiosztottak az agynemut, de gondoltam, maradok inkabb a sajat halozsakomnal. azt megiscsak tudom, hogy en izzadtam ossze. (: de ez valami hihetetlen szenvedos volt, ahogy az volt a fo problemam, hogy hogy erintkezzem minel kevesebb feluleten barmivel. alvas nem sok volt, es ebben a melegben sok mast nem lehetett csinalni. aztan ejjelre es eszak fele haladva olyan hideg lett, hogy gyoztem feloltozni.

egyebkent a sztyeppe dobbenetesen szep. nem ertem, miert latom igy, mert nem sokban kulonbozik a mi alfoldunktol, amit nem igazan talalok vonzonak. de itt csak fekudtem az agyamon, es bamultam kifele az ablakon... mondjuk, itt vannak vadlovak, tevek es egyebek is (:

amik dobbenetesek a vonatozasban:

- a budi, de ezt nem reszletezem (:

- nehany helyen, ahol a vonat 10-20 percre megall, a helyiek elozonlik a vonatot es a peront, es arulnak mindent - gyumolcsot, innivalot, sult husokat (!!!), kajat -, es latvan engem, gazdag turistat, megrohamoztak, hogy vegyek mindenbol. mondanom sem kell, semmibol nem lehet 2 darabot venni, hanem egy vodorrel. az a minimum. vegul en nem vettem semmit, de a 4-szemelyes kupe megtelt +12kilo gyumolccsel. remeltem, hogy megpunnyad, mire odaerunk...

- a tea. jottek, es kertek valamire penzt. mondtam, hogy nem adok. megis, mire? hat teara. mondtam, hogy koszi, van vizem, az jo lesz. rendes helyi modjara egy porcelan bogret kellett volna magammal hoznom, es reggel abban teazni. mondanom sem kell, hogy a teavizet valami hatalmas izeban melegitettek, ami nagyjabol egy kalyhahoz hasonlitott, effektive nyilt tuzet raktak a szerkezetben (minden kocsiban egyet)!!!

- volt konyha. mondjuk, oda sem tettem be a labam. en mar ehhez tul nyugatias es finnyas vagyok (hehe, mert nem tudom, mi var meg ram... :P).

- dohanyozni termeszetesen lehetett a kocsi vegeben. bar valoszinu folosleges lenne tiltani...

hajnalban odaertem, jottek ertem. elmentunk egy igen utos helyre, ahol... hat... nem szivesen laknek. na, mindegy, errol ennyit. tudjatok, ha kell, a jeg hatan is...

ennek az egy hetnek a lenyege az onkentes melo (www.wwoof.org, www.helpx.net). es hogy miert? azt hiszem, ez egy igen jo modja egy orszag igazi megismeresenek. szoval mint kiderult, en vagyok az elso fecske itt kazahsztanban, ugyhogy a szervezonek goze sincs, hogy mi hogy lesz. kiraly, mondom! kicsit keritest festettem naluk (tok jo lett, szoval ha bedol a telco, meg a masszazs biznisz - hajra enairgy! - akkor jo penzert vallalok festest is (:), aztan elmentunk egy dolinka nevu faluba, ahol otthagytak a farmon. biztos nem veletlen, de a falu egyetlen nemet szarmazasu embere lett a hazigazdam. igy, meg ha limitalva is, de a beszelokem nem szenvedte meg annyira. igaz, kettonk kozul en beszelek jobban. a lanya a helyi suli nemet tanara, es kb. annyira tud nemetul, mint en oroszul. co comment (:

a melo 3 nap alatt nem haladta meg az etkezesek ossz idejet sem. es akkor a teazasokrol meg nem is beszeltunk. (: szedtem ribizlit, gazoltam, es kb. ennyi. a nepek csodajara jartak, hogy ki lehetek en ott, es mit is csinalok. a hely amugy nevezetes, van muzeuma is (benne van a lonely planet-ben is), mivel anno a sztalini eraban innen iranyitottak a munkataborok egy reszet.

elso este le kellett ulnom, es oroszul vegignezni egy hihetetlen gagyi dokumentumfilmet, amibol egy arva kukkot nem ertettem. aztan a megkonnyebbulesem pillanataban mondtak, hogy van meg egy. de kiderult, hogy azert szeretnek nekem mindezt megmutatni, mert a hazigazdaim is beszeltek benne. kiderult, hogy a holgy lagerben szuletett, ott elt 5 eves koraig, es elvitt a muzeumba, megmutatta az apja papirjat kiallitva stb. furcsa erzes volt talalkozni a tortenelem egy aldozataval... ):

de mivel nekem mindent meg kell mutatniuk, igy a no elvitt a munkahelyere, a helyi korhazba. roviden es tomoren: nem leszek itt beteg!!! nem, nem, es nem. (:

egyebkent az emberek - mint videken altalaban - hihetetlen kedvesek, es allandoan korulottem nyuzsogtek. neztek, hogy mit csinalok, es neha meg a wc-re is utanam jottek (ami termeszetesen uberbrutal pottyantos volt).

most megyek kezet mosni, mert ez a billentyuzet nem tul higienikus, es mar ragadok. amugy a mai kuldetesem: megtalalni a varosban a publikus zuhanyzot, es letusolni (:

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my favourite: the public transportation. my destination: karaganda. 16-hour long trip in a sleeping car. i was told to take the separated 4-person car, and if it is too comfortable, then on the way back i can go in the common car (30-40 people). yes, i will!!!:P

there were 2 kazah women and a girl in my cabin, who always wanted to talk to me in russian. pretty hard to say, that i do not really want to talk, rather just look out the window and have rest. anyway, if i go further on like this, i can soon have my exam in russian (:

it was about 45 degree (~113F). we were given linens, but i decided to use my sleeping bag instead. at least i know, that it's my sweat in it. (: but it was really suffering and such... hot, hot, hot and then on the north: cold and cold. anyway, steppe is wonderful. i cannot explain why i liked it so much. it is similar to the hungarian plain, but somehow i do not like that one so much. here i was just laying on my bed and staring out the window...

amazing/shocking things on the train:

- toilet, but no more details (:

- in some stations, where we were waiting 10-20 mins, locals came to and next to the train and tried to sell their goods. everything: friuts, drinks, food, even sausage and prepared meat (!!!), and they found me a good customer. the funny thing is, that one cannot buy 1 or 2 pieces of fruit, the minimum is a buckle. anyway, i did not buy anything, but still in my cabin we had an additional 12 kg of fruits. in that hot... auch!

- tee. they asked for some money. i said no. what for? for tee. no, i don't need, i have water. as a normal local i should have taken my porcelian cup with me and have tee in the morning. the shocking was, that the water for the tee was heated in some stove, where ther was real fire - no electricity. on the train!!! will find some pics later.

- there was a kitchen in the train. ok, i am to modern and squeamish to enter there (yeah, i don't know, what i can expect in the future... :P)

- of course you could smoke at the end of the car. most probably it is needless to forbid...

i got there in damn and my host picked me up. this whole week is about volunteering work (www.wwoof.org, www.helpx.net). why? i think that this is a good way of getting to know a country better. as it came out, i am the first wwoofer in KZ, so i am the one testing a few of the farms. (: so i was painting fences, and then left for a village called dolinka. i was lucky to be hosted by the only german-rooted woman in the village, so even with limitations, but i could speak (i die, if i cannot communicate enough (: ). the truth is, that my poor german knowledge was still better, then hers, or her german teacher daughter (!!!)

my work in 3 days was less, then the time i spend with eating, not even mentioning teatime. i was admired by the locals! (: the place itself is famous for the stalini era, as the lagers were controlled from this village. there is even a museum here (mentioned in LP)!!!

first night i was shown a russian documentary, which i was not very interested in, but then it came up, that my hosts are in the film, and the lady was born in a lager and lived there until 5yrs. it was really shocking.

as they have to show everythingfor me, i was taken to the hospital, where the lady works. shortly: i will not be sick here. no, no and no. it's a fact. (:

otherwise people - as usually in the countryside - are very friendly and are always going to take care of me. looking all my movements, even coming after me when going to the toilet (which is not the english one, not even the french one...)

my current mission for the day: finding the public shower, where i could take a shower. finally. (:

a vilag legvegen... / at the very end of the world

...vagy pont itt kezdodik a vilag?

ma hegymasztam. ez onmagaban mar tok jo (1700 m-rol 3100-re, es ebbol csak egy 300 m-es szakaszt tettem meg sifelvonoval, a maradekot 841 lepcso megmaszasa utan fuvon, kovon, csovon es havon!!! (: ), de az erzes, ami ma magaval ragadott: leirhatatlan. turistak sehol, helyiek eppenhogy, habar szombat volt. nem tudom, mikor volt utoljara ilyen nyugodt napom. amikor tenyleg semmi nem szamit. az ember csak megy, megy, a hegy teteje csak kozeledik, es semmi mas nem fontos, sem ido, sem penz, sem hataridok, tenyleg semmi... csak a hegy es te (:

(ott voltam fent a feher reszen, csak arrol nincs meg foto keznel)

de kicsit gyakorlatiasabb leszek: szoval felmasztam a sok-sok lepcson, aztan egy osvenyen mentem tovabb, ami neha nem allt masbol, mint hogy egy nagy cso tetejen egyensulyzva lehetett menni. egeszen chimbulak-ig, ami a helyi siparadicsom. ott mar volt etterem es egyebek. eloszor ettem itt etteremben. toltam egy helyi husos kajat - azt mondjak, hogy etteremben no para; amugy nagyon finom volt -, bar a felvonon a gyomrom utana kicsit kerdore vont, hogy nekem valo-e az olyan kaja, amiben tobb az erospaprika, mint a hus (:

no, de felvono, aztan gyalog tovabb. a latvany annyira lenyugozo, hogy nem tudtam betelni vele. csend, nyugi, tiszta levego - ennyi. 3000 m magassagban jelentkeztek az elso hofoltok, gondolom, meg tavaly oktoberben eshetett le az a ho, ami most olvad. tok jo kis patakok keletkeznek belole, kristalytiszta jeghideg vizzel - kihagyhatatlan! aztan egy keves hogolyozas szandalban (:, a turistak lekenyerezese, hogy plz csinaljatok rolam is egy fotot, es mailben kuldjetek mar el, mert nalam ugye nincs gep... (se bakancs, se turabot)

ezert sincsenek meg sehol kepek a blogban (csak egy bejegyzeshez sikerult feltoltenem), mert:

- nem vittem ma magammal gepet

- nem hoztam kabelt sem a telefonomhoz, sem a fenykepezohoz

- nem fotozom (de fogok neha!)

egyebkent vicces volt, mert fogalmam sem volt, hova megyek. es bakancs helyett szandal volt rajtam. finom erzes, amikor mezitlab bokaig sullyedsz a hoban... de az eszre nem vett kispatak sem jobb (:

ja, mondanom sem kell, hogy a helyi sipalya kivetitojet budapesten gyartottak ((:

annyira magavalragado volt a hely, hogy nem volt szivem ott hagyni. 7-kor ment az utolso busz, en 5-kor mar tudtam, hogy ez reg bukta (ez mar csak egy ilyen utazas...). mit volt mit tenni, stop. vagy gyalog haza. asszem, az elso biztonsagosabbnak - es 1000 m megmaszasa utan - kenyelmesebbnek tunt. szoval egy toyota highlander hozott majdnem hazig, amibe alig mertem beulni izzadtan es budosen, annyira meno volt... (:

hat ennyi egyelore almaty. holnap meg egy mecset, es delutan nekivagok a vegtelen sztyeppenek. hogy lovakat fogok orizni, vagy krumplibogarat szedni, ez meg a jovo titka.

ja, van kinti szamom: +7 777 5494735

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...or it's just the beginning?

today i was mountainclimbing. this is cool already (from 1700 m to 3100, and only 300 m altitude by ski-lift, the rest is on foot: 841 stairs, then on grass, pipe, stones and snow!!! (: ), but the feeling that just enchanted me: beyond exceptions. no tourists, maybe locals, even though it was saturday. i cannot remember when i last had such a calm day. when nothing counts. one just walks up, and walks up, the summit gets nearer, and nothing esle is important, no time, no money, no due dates, really nothing... only the summit and you (:

(i went up to almost the top, i just have no pics about that yet)

but to be more realistic: i conquered the stairs, then a route, that soon became a pipe: until the local ski-resort, chimbulak. yeah, that was more for tourism, restaurants and so on. i had lunch in a restaurant (first time here, they say there is no problem with restaurants), which was really good. although my stomach challenged me if the food is really suitable for me, if there is more paprika in it, then meet (:

but OK, ski-lift, then going on foot. the scenery was so-so-so impressive, that i was just standing there... silence, calmness, clean air - c'est tout. in the altitute of 3000 m i met the first snow patches, that most probably fell last october or such. the melted snow created little cute springs with christal-clear, ice-cold water. ok, then some snowballing in sandals!!! then asking others to take a few pictures of me and send me by mail, as my camera is laying on my bed at home (:

(same issue with my boots and hiking equipments)

that's why i have no pics anywhere (except one):

- no camera with me

- no cabel for my camera or my phone

- i dont take pics (but sometimes i will!)

otherwise it was funny as i had no glue where i was going. so instead of boots i wore sandals. and the feeling, when you get sunk in the snow until your ankle barefeet! but the spring, that you don;t notice isn't better either (:

the place itself was so fascinating, that i could not leave. the last bus left at 7 pm., so at 5 i was sure, that i failed (again...). what to do, either walking home or hitchhiking. the second option seemed to be more secure, and after 1000 m hiking also more comfortable. so a toyota highlander - which was so elegant, that i hardly dared to sit in with the dirt on me - took me almost home. (:

ok, this is almaty for the first round. tomorrow a mosque and in the afternoon i will start off to the great steppe. whether i will take care of horses or collect colorado bugs, this is still the secret of the future.

oh, and i got my mobile here: +7 777 5494735