zaroakkordkent / final stage

almaty-ban eltoltott 1 napom utan ujra nekivagtam a hegyekenk, bar nem minden porcikam vagyott mar faradtsagos maszas es hideg utan, de ugye a varosban logni otthon is lehet... szoval nekiindultam.
egy jol megpakolt hatizsakkal szokas szerint felszalltam a helyi jaratra, es elmentem vele, ameddig csak lehetett. ott egy taxist elharitva elkezdtem stoppolni. egesz hamar felvettek, viszont 1-2 km utan utlezaras volt, igy gyalog folytattam. nagyon faraszto volt, valoszinu az egyoldalu etkezes es a megszokottnal kicsit tobb gyaloglas es joves-menes az elmult honapokban megtette a hatasat... azert felkuzdottem magam 2500-ra. az ut egy csatorna mellett vezetett, ami furcsa hangulatot adott a helynek. ami vicces volt a vegere, hogy a varos felol felkuszott egy alacsony felho, es a latotavolsag igy lecsokkent 20 m-re. szoval fogalmam sem volt, hol vagyok, es mennyi van meg hatra. es felerni a tohoz sem volt akkora elmeny, ha ennyit lat az ember:

szokas szerint kicsit faztam...es mivel semmit nem lattam a kornyekbol, megkerdeztem a helyieket, hogy hol tudok inni egy teat - mi mast ugye?!? mondtak, hogy fenn a hegyen van egy csillagvizsgalo, ott van hotel is (a hotelt ne tessek szo szerint erteni!). utkozben az ido kegyes volt hozzam, es egesz sokat latni engedett a tobol. es esni is csak kicsit esett. tokre orultem...a hotel egy igazi orosz gyongyszem volt...megittam a teamat, ettem a sajat kajambol (ez itt sehol nem problema: volt olyan, hogy egy szorakozohelyre beultunk ugy, hogy egy masik helyrol rendeltunk oda pizzat, es a boltbol vittunk bort...), majd ugy dontottem, hogy az ejszakat a to mellett toltom a satramban. mire odaertem, megint esett, de gyorsan felhuztam a satrat (eddigi legjobban sikerult!), es fel 7-kor lefekudtem aludni... ami nem ment olyan konnyen, mert ez volt az elso satrazasom egyedul, es nem tudtam hirtelen, hogy feljek-e vagy sem. vegulis nem feltem...
ejjel tobbszor felebredtem arra, hogy esik. meg hogy hideg van. meg hogy esik. meg hogy hideg van. reggel 8-ra viszont megjott a napsutes, igy gyors reggeli meg a halozsakban, es pakolas. ez volt a szallasom:itt:
mire elindultam, ujra esett, igy teazot kerestem. a helyi lavinafigyeloktol kerdeztem, hogy hova tudnek menni, mire termeszetesen behivtak (utolag bevallom, erre apellaltam...), es lelkesen meseltek a mindenfele maszasaikrol. meghivtak teara, es ebedre (friss hal a tobol!!!), sot, eso esetere ingyen szallast is ajanlottak. mondtam, hogy hamarosan repulok haza, es meg ezer dolgom van, igy amint lehet, megyek tovabb.

egyebkent hihetetlen, hogy mar akar ket oran keresztul is tudok oroszul tarsalogni, es mar nem is olyan unalmas temakrol. a jelek szerint meg is ertjuk egymast, es a szotar is egyre kevesebbszer kell :P

esett egy adag jegeso es ho:aztan a valtozatossag kedveert kisutott a nap. azert a hegyek teteje mar friss hoval boritott:

ugy tunt, hogy az idojaras nem nekem kedvez, mert fel ora utan ujra osszeallt egy ujabb zivatarfelho. gyorsan bekeredzkedtem egy ott parkolo minibuszba, ami vegulis lehozott a varosba. kozben fel ora jegeso volt.., (:

azert megerte, meg ha nem is tudtam felmenni magasabbra az idojaras miatt, igy is sokat tanultam a hegyekbol. es majd legkozelebb tovabbmegyek (:

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after spending a day in almaty i decided to go back to the mountains. i was a bit reluctant, because i was tired - maybe because of the same food all the time, or unusually lot of walking - and i did not long for cold weather either. but hey, these are my last days here, so i just cannot sit in the sofa watching tv...

so i started with a backpack full of food and warm clothes, took the local bus to as far as possible  to the mountains. there i refused a taxi and started hitchhiking. pretty soon someone took me, but the road was closed after a while, so i walked further on.

despite the fatique i climbed up to 2500 m. the road went next to a tube, which looked pretty weird, and not really nice...

by the time i reached the lake, the weather changed and got sooo foggy, that i could hardly see anything. got a bit disappointed by trekking a few hours and not seeing anything from the lake... i had no idea where i was and what was around.

as usual, i was cold...

because i could not see anything from around, i asked some locals, where i could have a cup of tea (what else?!? of course...) i was sent to an observatory nearby, and a hotel as well (not a real hotel, just to avoid misunderstandings). the weather was really nice with me and let me see a bit of the lake:

the hotel was a russian miracle...

i drank my tea, ate my own food (which is very normal here: once we went to a pub, where we ordered pizza from another place and took wine from the shop!!!). i decided to spend the night next to the lake, just to have a beautiful view in the morning. by the time i got there, it was raining, so i had to be quick - still one of the best with this tent, and went to bed at 6:30 pm... it was weird as this was the first time i camped on my own, so i was not sure if i should be affraid or not... so i decided not. (:

at night i got up several times hearing the rain on the top of my tent. and it was cold. and was raining. and cold. but! by 8 am sunshine and warm!!! so, a quick breakfast and packing. this was the place for camping:

here:

by the time i was on the road, it was raining again... shit... i tried to find a place to hide. i asked people in the first house, where i was - of course - invited in. they were the local lavina detectors (have no idea how they are called...), and told me everything about their climbings. i was invited for lunch (fresh fish from the lake!!!), and was offered a free couch for night in case of very bad weather. i really wanted to go as there is still much to do before i leave.

unbelievable, that i can already have a conversation of two hours in russian, and it's not that boring at all, we kind of understand each other, and my dictionary is not that often used... :P

it was ice and fresh snow on the top of the mountains, but in half an hour the sun was shining again. so i took my boots and on the road again...

this was not my day, as in half an hour it was storm again. i hardly had time to flee to a minibus, that finally took me to the city. we had another half an hour of heavy rain and ice on the way... ((:

anyway, i was worth it, even though i could not go as far as i wanted - due to the weather mainly -, but still i learned a lot and had a wonderful time there. more next time... (:

tudok tehenet fejni / i can milk a cow

hat igen, ez a nap is eljott... de kezdjunk mindent az elejen: song-kul, 3016 m-en talalhato to, a masodik legnagyobb a vilagon. korulotte hegyek es jurtak. olyan jurtak, amik nem a turistaknak vannak elokeszitve, hanem amiben hus-ver helyiek elik nomad eletuket. nem nagyon volt fogalmam arrol, hogy hogy jutok el oda, de abban nagyjabol biztos voltam, hogy nem akarok szervezett turan reszt venni.a remek hotel utan taxit kerestem, ami atvisz a 3100 m-es hagon. es persze olcson. ilyen nem volt, ugyhogy fogtam egy buszt (megosztott taxit), ami elvitt az utolso jarhato faluig. ott elkezdtem fuvart keresni. egy ora elteltevel kicsit elszomorodtam, mert osszesen 2 helyi volga hajtott el, ami celom eleresehez edeskevesnek tunt. aztan felporogtek az esemenyek, es hirtelen 3 auto is jott. fogtam a legolcsobbat - epp egy buszt -, ahol a vegen meg vacsorat is kaptam (a leheto legszunyogosabb helyen alltunk meg kajalni), es ingyen szallast is inteztek aznapra. nem tudom, miert, de az utnak csak bizonyos reszeiert kellett fizetnem, osszessegeben a feleert. nem baj, nem panaszkodtam... es az atlag 3-napos utat letudtam masfel alatt (:ujabb taxi, ami a hegynek felfele vezeto ut toveben rakott ki. innen gyalog gondoltam felmenni, 3 napra terveztem. kb. 2 km utan megallt mellettem egy nemet turistakat szallito busz, felvett, es felvitt a toig. vicces volt latni a sok nemet turistat, ahogy felpercenkent megallitottak a buszt, kiszalltak fenykepezkedni, majd tovabbhajtottunk. egy kicsit en is nemet turistanak erezhettem magam. azert orulok, hogy nem igy utazom... :Pamint meglattam az elso tevet a tonal, mondtam, hogy rakjanak ki. irany a jurtak!!! odamentem, es mondtam a helyieknek, hogy szeretnek ott maradni 1-2 napot, cserebe segitek a munkaban. ezen nevettek egyet - megjegyzem, jogosan -, neztek ram furcsan egy darabig, de mindjart mondtak, hogy szeretettel latnak. egybol elokerult az asztal, kaja, tea, vodka, kinek mi kellett. en maradtam a kajanal es a teanal, bar nagyon szerettek volna meggyozni arrol, hogy jot fog tenni egy kis vodka a hideg ellen... (:hihetetlen aranyos csalad volt, nagyon jol ereztem magam naluk. es ezt nem csak altalanossagbol irom, mert utana voltam kevesbe kedves csaladoknal is - de errol majd kesobb. a fovarosbol ott volt a fel csalad, ezert eleg nagy felhajtas volt. masnap reggel mar nem usztam meg, es 9-re ket vodkat is belemkonyorogtek!!! mondtam, hogy a hetre ennyi volt... :P
aztan jott a feketeleves. minden etkezes kb. kenyerbol, teabol, kumiszbol, lekvarbol es vajbol allt. de mivel most rokonok voltak, meg minden, igy unnepi ebed volt. 5 birkat vagtak le. az egyik feje a maga valojaban pillanatok alatt az orrom elott landolt. akkor meg vigyorogtam, meg fenykepezgettem... de amikor kezdodott a kinalgatas: birkabelek tobb variacioban, birkaful, agy, es a legnagyobb inyencseg: a szeme. hat hogy tudtam volna erre nemet mondani?!? nem baj, mondom magamnak, nem gondol, csak eszik, nem gondol, csak eszik... mindenesetre azota osszeszorul a gyomrom, amikor ezekre a percekre gondolok... (((:lehet, hogy talan ez az oka annak, hogy 3 normalis nap utan ujra gyomorgondok jelentkeztek?!?
nem volt nap, ami lovaglas vagy csacsigolas nelkul telt volna. es mindez olyan kornyezetben, hogy amulatbaejto - meg az elozoek ismereteben is!!! volt nap, amikor volt szerencsem lohaton behajtani a tobbi lovat - persze egy kis segitseggel...
harmadnap tovabballtam, de nem voltam tul jol, igy valamelyik jurtaban hivtak egy dokit. pedig en csak aludni akartam egy orat. a doki meglepodott a 100-as vernyomasomon, de mondtam neki, hogy nalam ez 'ocseny normalnyi' (nagyon normalis - altalam eszkabalt orosz szoosszetetel). erre megnyugodott, es kiosztotta a tennivalokat. minvel egy kukkot nem ertettem, igy inkabb en kerdeztem, tobbnyire elodontendo kerdeseket, vagy amire tuti megertem a valaszt. kaptam gyogyszert is, szoval full extras jurta volt. ennek ellenere mennem kellett tovabb.
az uton talalkoztam egy olasz ujsagironovel, aki a ferjet kovette autoval, aki biringazott. teljesen meg volt lepodve, hogy mi a turot csinalok ott, de aztan 'felvette az adataimat', ugyhogy valamikor a nyar vegen meg ujsagcikk is lehet belolem (:
harmadik jurtanak egy igen budoset sikerult valasztanom, de hat ez is benne van a pakliban. (sajnos azota is visszakoszon a szag a halozsakomon) persze, mindenhol ezer gyerek van. itt is volt, csak valahogy nem torodtek veluk annyira. a kiskolyoknek allandoan a szajaig folyt a takony, azt belekente a full-dzsuva ruhajaba, es mindezek utan vegigmaszott az ebedloasztalon. eh, mondom, itt van az a pont, ahol mar mindegy, hogy figyelek-e arra, hogy en tiszta legyek... (((:
ertheto okokbol innen a reggelit kovetoen azonnal leptem. gondoltam, felmaszom egy kisebb hegyre, amin van egy kis hofolt, aztan irany tovabb. ez a kisebb hegy 3.5 ora volt felfele, es masfel lefele... es 80-160 lepesenkent meg kellett allnom, mert nem kaptam rendesen levegot! mindegy, megerte a latvanyert, az biztos.aznapra egesz jo kis jurtat fogtam ki (meg napelem is volt!!!), de mar ereztem, hogy ideje visszaternem a civilizacioba. marmint a helyibe...
utolso napom reggel 6-kor tehenfejessel kezdodott. elso nap mar probalkoztam, de akkor sehogy sem ment. most viszont, mintha egy profi veszett volna el bennem (profi parasztlany?!? (((: ). szoval tok jol ment, de miutan csontta fagytam, inkabb visszabujtam a halozsakba.
ez volt az a hely, ahol az emberek jo resze mar oroszul sem tudott. nem gondoltam volna, hogy eljon az a perc, amikor nehany orosz szoert halas leszek (((:lenyeg, hogy azota ujra tudom, hogy hanyadika van, mennyi az ido, ettem etteremben, van telefon, 6 nap utan ujra letusolhattam es egyeb apro oromok... hiaba, en mar tul varosi vagyok ahhoz, hogy ezeket egy hetnel tovabb nelkulozni tudjam... de elcserelni nem cserelnem el semmiert az elmult par napot!!!
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yeah, this day has also come to my life... but let's start it at the beginning: song-kul lake, at the altitude of 3016 m, the second biggest in the world. surrounded by mountains, yurts. yurts, that are not made up for tourists, but yurts, where real local kyrgyz people live their nomadic life. i had no idea how i could get there, but i was sure, that i did not want any organized tour or such.after my amazing hotel in jalal-abad i started searching for a taxi, that could get me over the pass on the height of 3100 m, and for cheap of course. (: no such thing, so i took the shared taxi, that took me to the farest possible point and left me there hitchhiking. i got a bit disappointed, when only two local volgas passed in an hour. then in a minute i had 3 cars to choose, so i luckily took a bus, where the driver invited me for dinner (the place we stopped for dinner was full of mosquitoes (((: ) and organized me free accomodation. for some reason i was charged for only part of the journey, but who cares... the average 3-day long journey took me one and a half ((:then another taxi, that left me on the bottom of the way up to the lake. i wanted to walk up in 3 days. after walking ~2km i was taken by a german tourist bus and drove until the lake (for free of course (: ). it was funny seeing the tourists as they asked the driver to stop the bus in every 5 minutes, getting off the bus, taking 3 pictures and going further on. i am happy i dont travel that way... :P
as i saw the first camel next to the river, i asked them to stop. so, up to the yurts. i entered to a symphatic one and asked for accomodation and tried to offer my help as an exchange. they kind of laughed, when they understand what i wanted (i totally understand why :P), but were very pleased to host me. immediately i was seated and offered some food, tea and vodka of course!!! i did not take vodka even though they really wanted to convince me that it is very good for my health and against cold as well... (:
the family was unbelievably nice. and it is really not that i am polite or so, because later on i stayed with families, that were not that kind at all... anyway, the family had guests from bishkek, so life was really active there. next day i could not escape and had to have two vodkas - before 9 am!!! (((: but i told them, that this was the portion for the week... :Pthen came the shocking part. imagine having all meals as bread, jam, butter, kymys and tea. but for the guests they cut 5 sheeps and prepared a huge feast. somehow one head landed just in front of me on the table. wow, i was still happy, taking pictures and laughing... but when i was offered by several variations of intestines of the sheep, ears, brain... and the most delicious part (by their imagination): the eyes!!! so, how can one say no for this?!? kind of a once in a lifetime experience, so i just closed my eyes, and told to myself: 'eat, dont think, eat, dont think!' anyway, my stomach still gets stuck, when this occurs to me... (((:maybe this is the reason why i again have stomach problems after 3 normal days?!?
no day passed without riding a horse or a donkey. and i had a chance to collect animals on a horse - that was fun!!! and - even after the previous pictures in my blog - i have to say, that the nature here was even more beautiful, then before!!!
the third day i went further on, but i had stomach problems, so i saw a doctor in one of the yurts. i did not mean it, i just wanted to sleep an hour. the doctor got shocked on my 100 blood pressure, but when i told her, that it is ocheny normalnyi (absolutely normal - an expression made by me) for me. so she gave me some pills to take and advised. as i did not understand a word, i started asking rather and tryed to get answers, that i could easily understand. anyway, i had to go further.
the third yurt was a pretty smelly one... but yeah, that can also happen. of course there are a lot of kids everywhere. same here, but this kid was just so dirty, and i could hardly escape from his hugs... ok, gotta go again! the next day i was going up to a small mountain. this came up a big bigger, than i expected. going up took me 3.5 hours, and i had to stop in every 5 minutes, because i could hardly breath. anyway, the view was spectacular!!that day i had a full service yurt, even with solar cells, but i already felt, that it was time to get back to civilization. i mean, the local one...
last morning i got up at 6 and milked a cow!!! first day i already tried it once, but i just could not do that. maybe in these days i became a bit nomadic, so it just succeeded without any problem. i cannot say, that i am professional, but it was fun. after getting frozen, i got back to my sleeping bag.this was the place, where people spoke more kyrgyz, then russian. i did not think earlier, that the moment will come, when i am happy about hearing some russian words! (((:
anyway, i again know the date and the time, i had a shower after 6 days, ate warm dish in a restaurant and other small things... it is true, i am a city kid, i cannot hide it... but i would never change these days!!! (:

lenin csucs alaptabor / peak lenin base camp 3600m

pentek reggel nekivagtunk kirgisztan deli reszenek - ismet egy nemzetkozi csapat: egy uj-zelandi meg az elozo turarol, egy svajci, ket ausztral es egy francia, no meg egy magyar -, hogy megnezzuk a kirgiz nemzeti lovas jatekokat a lenin csucs (7134m) alaptaboraban. en meg sosem voltam ekkora hegy kozeleben...

egy csomo kavarodas volt, mert nem tudtuk, mikor indulunk, egy amerikai parra vartunk, akik vegulis az utolso pillanatban megsem velunk jottek stb. aztan jott a soforok benazasa, miszerint eloszor megalltunk tankolni. mert ugye kiszamithatatlan, hogy ha 2x8 orat fogunk utazni, skkor mennyi benzin kell. aztan megalltunk nekik kajat venni. ez is tipikusan valami olyan, amit nem lehet elore tudni... es akkor az utolso ket korben vettek 2 dinnyet, es az auto kerekeit is fel kellett pumpalni. reggel 8 ora helyett del, es meg el sem indultunk... ((: az ut szokas szerint gyonyoru... mar nagyon banom, hogy nem hoztam el az slr-omat. meg jo, hogy van, aki elhozta. nehany kep izelitoul:az ut exponencialisan rosszabbodott, ahogy a hegy fele kozeledtunk. vagy inkabb ne is hivjam utnak egy ido utan?!? (:
ez volt a 8. napom, ami hasmarssal kombinalt volt, es az, hogy az ember nem tud barmikor elmenni wc-re, allandoan ehes, a gyomra helyen viszont egy nagy lufi van, amit minden zotykolodes egy kicsit meg jobban megvisel, hat igen... nem tette konnyuve ezt a napot. mire felertunk, mar csak egy nagy amulatra volt erom, es arra, hogy a jurtaban - eletemben eloszor - vegre alomra hajtsam a fejem.
persze elotte meg kellett latogatni a wc-t (bocs, hogy allandoan errol sztorizok, de a fentiek ismereteben ez igen fontos meghatarozoja a napjaimnak!), ime:a helyiek nem nagyon ismerik a privat zona fogalmat, szoval ilyenre itt nem is nagyon kellett szamitani. mint kesobb megtudtuk, a magantulajdonet sem, igy a vizunket egy gyumolcslevunket egeszen gyakran a magukenak ereztek (:
masnap reggel elkezdodotek a jatekok. az egesz ugy nezett ki, hogy az emberek zome a kornyekbeli ket falubol jott, plusz mi voltunk kb. 30-an turistak. negy jatek volt: penzerme osszegyujtese a foldrol, menyasszony uldozese lohaton, egy-egy elleni harc szinten lohaton stb.az egesz azert volt vicces, mert hihetetlenul szervezetlennek tunt nekem, bar valoszinu helyi viszonylatban ez egy igen jol szervezett dolog volt. de mindenre orakat kellett varni...
... kiveve amiert fizet az ember. a szervezonk a keresem utan pillanatok alatt keritett nekem egy lovat, ugyhogy volt szerencsem a volgyben egy orat lovagolni (persze, csak lightos kezdo modjara). egy 5 eves gyerkocot adtak mellem segedkent, ha esetleg gond lenne. de nem lett, leszamitva, hogy neehz volt vele a kommunikacio (:
a helyiek hihetetlen kedvesseget mutatja, hogy kesobb meg tobb ingyenes lehetoseget kaptam, sot volt, amikor kisebb vagtaba is kezdtunk az egyik loval. nagyon jo volt! (:a jurtaban kaptunk enni is, bar ezt nem neveznem a tura csucspontjanak. es nem az en kenyes gyomrom miatt... meg jo, hogy kenyerrel, mezzel es teaval mindig jol lehet lakni (:
a masodik nap kicsit tulfoglaltak a szallast (kaptunk +2 gyerocot), ugyhogy a jurtaban 10-en laktunk, es megfordulni nem nagyon tudtam, mert annyi helyem mar nem volt. eletem top 10 legrosszabb ejszakaja koze sikerult beszurni ezt, mert a hirtelen magassagnovekedes (+3100m egy nap alatt), a hasmars es a hely szuke nem tette a dolgot tulelviselhetove. foleg amikor ejnek evadjan az ember a budit keresi fejlampaval a fejen a 3 fokban... de hat ettol szep az elet, nem?
szerencsenk volt, mert az idojaras tokeletes volt, es csak akkor kezdett esni, amikor visszaindultunk. a masik busznak volt ket defektje az uton, ugyhogy annyira nem haladtunk gyorsan. ja, a kedvencem az volt, amikor - a masik buszra varva - megalltunk egy tocsa mellett, es a ket helyi elkezdte mosni a buszt. vicces volt ((:ma osh-ban lofralok egy svajci, nagyon aranyos lannyal. (sajnos o ket hettel elobb megy uzbegbe, mint en. pedig nagyon jo lenne egyutt utazni tovabb) kezdek raerezni az egesznek az izere. es ajanlom mindenkinek!!! egyedul utazni hatizsakkal: megismered a vilagot!

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on friday morning we - again an international team: a new-zealandi from the previous trip, a swiss, two australians, a french and a hungarian - were up to a new tour to peak lenin (7134m) base camp to see the kyrgyz horse festival. i have never been to near to such a huge summit before.

after a big mess of organization: now knowing the exact time of leaving, waiting for others etc we thought we left. this meant, that we went to the gas station, then to the market to buy some food for the drivers, then to check the wheels in the service, then buying some melon for the journey - all of them are pretty hard to do in advance... so left the city at noon instead of leaving at 8-9 am.

the road was amazing, as usual. i am pretty sorry, that i have not taken my slr with me, but luckily others did (:

the road itself became worseand worse and worse as we got nearer to the basecamp. or better not calling it a road at all?!?
this was my 8th day of diarrhoea, and when you cannot stop whenever you want, you are always hungry, have a bubble in your stomach, and the bus bumps once in every 10 secs, then it is... yeah... pretty hard to survive. by the time we got there, my only wish was to go to sleep in the yurt - first time in my life (:

of course first i had to visit the toilet (sorry to story about them all the time, but knowing all the above you need to understand, that it definitely is an important part of my trip). pretty funny experience... locals do not know the word privacy, which makes it even more funny (:

net morning the games started. the wole stuff seemed to be a bit undercontrolled, but i think, by local standards, it was pretty much ok. but we had to wait a lot for everything. we saw games like: collecting coins from the ground on a horse, chasing the birde, one-to-one fight on a horse etc.

our orgainzer (thanks Talant! (: ) was very nice and helpful, so i had the chance to try horseriding. i got a 5-year old kid as a help just in case. but there was no case, luckily (:

the fact, that after this, i got another few chances to ride for free, shows the unbelievable kindness of locals. one even took me for a fast ride. that was great!!! (:

we got food in the yurt, but it was not the best part of the trip. (: it;s still good, that you can always eat bread and honey... (:

the second day the yurt was a bit overbooked (an extra 2 kids), so it was the 10 of us in the yurt. no chance to change the sleeping position at all ((: together with the altitute sickness (+3100m a day), the vodka and the diarrhoea this night easily got a good position in the top 10 worst nights in my life... :P

especially when in the middle of the night, in freezing cold you must go out... but this is why life is nice, isnt it? (:

the other bus had two flat tires, so we had to stop a few times... my favourite was, when we stoppend for a while, because there was some water next to the road. so we stopped to wash the bus (((:

now i am a bit stuck in osh, because a very nice swiss girl convinced me to hang over together. (thanks Sybil!!! it was great. will miss you...) we tried every food together and had a lot of fun. sorry, that our roads differ, butt see you in beirut!

i start really enjoy traveling. i can only recommend everyone to take a backpack and... get on the road!!!